I’ve called New Zealand a fantasy world before. It’s a place where Māori tradition and wild nature coexist perfectly. But if my last visit was about seeing the highlights, this trip was about living them. We traded a rushed itinerary for the freedom of the open road, spending three weeks navigating the South Island.
Day 1 & 2: A Beijing Stopover
In what’s now becoming a tradition, we started the holiday with a National Express coach to Heathrow airport. Everything went smoothly and we boarded the plane without issue. We flew with Air China. This felt like a ‘no-frills’ airline, every meal was either Chicken or Beef. If you have any dietary requirements let them know beforehand. As of 2025, I found their app unusable. I had to check in at the Airport counter.
We had a long stopover at Beijing Capital International. We were in Terminal 3. I particularly liked the number of temple-like structures and pagodas dotted around. This is a nice nod to China’s rich cultural heritage. More places should do that. Celebrate your history, folks! One super annoying thing was that I couldn’t for the life of me connect with any of my apps like WhatsApp using the WiFi here. It meant I couldn’t contact my family to tell them I was okay.
Top tip: I’ve been avoiding caffeine this trip and trying to follow the Timeshifter app. Many people swear it helps to avoid jet lag. I’ve tried to go to sleep when it suggests.
We booked the Terminal 3 A1 lounge for our 10-hour stopover. I don’t think this was great. You only get two hours, and while they serve a bunch of food, it isn’t particularly clear what the instant food contains or if it’s suitable for vegetarians.
Day 3: Touchdown in Auckland
We took an early flight from China to Auckland.
Accommodation:
We knew we’d be shattered so we booked the Holiday Inn near Auckland Airport. Honestly, we booked this hotel more for its proximity to the airport. We need a place to crash to have enough energy for the next day. We took the Yellow Bus shuttle, which operates 24/7 and costs $8 NZ.
Day 4: The Road to Lake Tekapo
We caught a plane to Christchurch airport to pick up our rental car. We went to the Sixt counter, and unfortunately came across a few issues. Even though we booked via booking.com, we were being charged extra. I wasn’t aware of these charges so I was a bit grumpy. No matter, to Lake Tekapo we go!
Our trusty steed was a red Toyota Corolla Hybrid (2025). The cruise control and automatic gear stick worked like a dream, making the journey a breeze. We weren’t keen on a big camper van or a massive car. We wanted something nimble enough for all locations. We did look into camper vans like Jucy but found that they were quite expensive for our needs. Also, maybe I’m just too old for sleeping in a camper van, but hey, everyone is different.
Top tip: On route, stop for a Fairlie pie. They serve some of the best pies in the South Island.
The journey from Christchurch to Lake Tekapo took about four hours. It only took that long because we couldn’t help stopping every five minutes. The most surreal moment was seeing the azure, light teal Lake Tekapo. Yes, it really looks like that. And when the sun shines, you are reminded how beautiful this planet we call home truly is. For Lord of the Rings fans, Lake Pukaki was the location for Lake-town (The Hobbit), and the surrounding grasslands were the setting for the Battle of the Pelennor Fields (The Return of the King).
Lake Tekapo.
Accommodation:
We stayed at Farmview Studio 1. It looked like a shipping container converted into a living space. It was functional and worked for us.
We headed to Dolce Pizza. Devastatingly, as soon as we arrived they sold out. Let that be a lesson to all to get them whilst they are hot! Instead, we ate at Ramen Tekapo. We got a hearty meal for the real treat tonight: Stargazing at Mt. John Summit!
We booked the Dark Sky Project. The highlight of the tour was seeing Saturn. It honestly looked like someone had placed a sticker on the telescope. Another highlight was seeing the SpaceX satellites, only observable at certain moments. I would say that this wasn’t better than the tour I did in Chile, but seeing the four stars that make up the New Zealand flag and Orion’s Belt was cool.
Is that a shooting star I see?
Day 5: Aoraki/Mount Cook
The local supermarket (Four Square Tekapo) is a good shout if you are on a budget, you can grab a sandwich for about $8 NZ dollars. If you fancy a hearty breakfast go to Greedy Cow Cafe.
It took about 1.5 hours to drive to the Hooker Valley Track. As we drove to our destination, we couldn’t help but stop off at multiple viewpoints. The route takes three hours to complete, and even though part of the route is still closed off as of December 2025, don’t let that stop you. The alpine hills juxtapose the impressive snowy caps of the mountain perfectly. This will always be a special area to me.
In the evening, I recommend relaxing at Tekapo Springs hot pools.
Day 6: Queenstown Thrills
It took about four hours to get to Queenstown from Lake Tekapo.
Accommodation:
Last year, I stayed at The Flaming Kiwi hostel in a dorm. This time, they’ve built separate cabins out back for couples or people wanting their own space. It is the perfect budget place to stay, though parking isn’t great here or anywhere else in Queenstown.
The number one thing I recommend here is the Gondola ride. The views up top are a fun way to see the town in all its glory. I 100% recommend the Luge. Use the power of gravity and fly down the race track. Pay for three rides because that’s enough. The line to get back up can get annoying, but it moves fast.
The view of Queenstown from the Gondola.
Afterwards, I recommend eating at Ferg Burger. It’s a highly rated joint but there’s a big line to boot. Wait in line, order, and then walk around the promenade to kill time. To burn off those extra calories, walk around the nearby, perfectly immaculate gardens. If you have a frisbee, you can play frisbee golf.
Day 7: Arrowtown
We had a lie-in after going full tilt the past few days. Remarkably, I’m still not feeling jet lagged.
We headed to Arrowtown in the morning. This is a former gold mining town where the shops still have the facade of times of yore. This is a good place to get a few gifts. I personally grabbed some mini paua shells for loved ones. The pies in the local bakery are brilliant. Generally, pies across the country are top tier, with fillings ranging from Thai Curry to Beef Brisket.
Next, we took the TSS Earnslaw steamship to a nearby farm. You can see the working engine powered by coal! It’s the oldest working steam-powered ship in the southern hemisphere. Here we had some afternoon tea before meeting some cute farm animals. This is a pricey tour but it’s worth it. You get to pet Scottish Highland Cows. That’s worth the price of admission alone.
So cute!
In the evening, we ate at Yonder. They do a mean breakfast in the morning and massive sharing plates in the evening. I recommend sharing one dish between two people.
Day 8: Glenorchy
In the morning, we headed to McKibbon’s of Royalburn, a fancy supermarket. I recommend the toasted sandwiches, the best I had on this trip.
After that, we drove to Glenorchy. This takes about one hour and is one of New Zealand’s most beautiful drives. One of the points I recommend stopping over is Mount Creighton for views of the stunning lake and mountainous landscape.
For our hike, we did the Diamond Creek Track (2 hours). It’s an easy hike and the payoff of seeing Black Swans at the end makes it worth it. Five minutes from the start of this hike is the Isengard lookout, a must for fans of the Lord of The Rings film. Nearby is the town of Paradise. It’s super small but people like to visit it to see its famous sign to say they’ve been to Paradise.
The view from the Diamond Creek Track.
On the way back, we headed to Alpine Aqualand. It’s got a hot pool and multiple swimming pools. My favourite part was the section where a current takes you down a circular route. Even better, one of the worlds most beautiful cricket ground, Sir John Davies Oval, is located here. When cricket is played, you can flights taking off from the nearby airport.
Day 9: Wanaka & Puzzling World
It takes one hour to get to Wanaka from Queenstown. We aimed for the Clutha Outlet Loop (1.5-2 hours), which takes you around a beautiful water spot.
Accommodation:
Afterwards, we checked into the Wanaka Hotel. It’s nothing fancy, though the hotel does benefit from a lot of parking out back. Staff were polite and friendly.
The best part of the day was Puzzling World. The illusion room was a real joy, and it does mess with your perception. The dining area also contains lots of puzzles. Our favourite was 4-D tic-tac-toe! We loved this so much we intend to make a version for ourselves back home. There’s also a maze where you need to get to the four towers, and then try to find the exit. Believe me when I tell you that finding the towers was easy but finding the exit was not. It’s a real workout!
One of my favourite meals of this trip was the Big Fig Wanaka. You pay by the plate size you order. I got the medium, and you can choose one protein and then five sides. This is a top-tier meal and I love this concept. I’m surprised more places don’t do this!
Finally, we went to see #ThatWanakaTree. The tree is famous for being the lone tree in the water. Do you lose anything by missing this? No. But it’s a nice walk to the tree and allows for nice photos of the coastline.
#ThatWanakaTree.
Day 10: Glaciers & Haast Pass
We started the morning at Big Fig Wanaka again. Brilliant at breakfast as at dinner, giving us the fuel we needed for a spectacular 4-hour drive over Haast Pass. Again there’s a number of viewpoints to stop at. We chose the Blue Pools to see the clear blue water.
Our next stop was the Mirror Lake found on Lake Matheson Walk. Sadly we didn’t see the mirror reflection. Also if there’s any wind or rain, the mirror effect won’t be present. Our final stop off was the Fox Glacier Viewpoint. I do think this is the icing on the cake (excuse the pun). In the heat of summer, to see the glacier in the distance was awesome.
A small silver fern.
Accommodation:
We checked into the Rain Forest Retreat in Franz Josef, and we loved it! It had a free hot tub to use. The restaurant adjoining the hotel had gourmet pizza. I had the lamb pizza, which is not a combo I’d typically put together, but it works.
Day 11: Carving Jade in Hokitika
We drove to Hokitika and headed straight to Bonz ‘N’ Stonz. Here you can carve your own jade (Pounamu). You do need to book this in advance. I chose to carve my very own symbol of Māui. My niece has made me watch Moana a million times so it was inevitable. You use tools like a sanding machine to perfect the curves of your jade.
A few things I wish I knew beforehand: One, I recommend choosing your pattern first. I went with an ambitious design, which meant it took 4-5 hours to complete. Second, think carefully about the jade you use. I absent-mindedly chose my piece, but some jade gives you a translucent green while others are more like cream. No piece is the same.
The finished product!
If you are looking for gifts for loved ones, try the Hokitika Glass Studio. The pieces here are exquisite and reasonably priced, plus you can see the glassblowers hard at work.
Accommodation:
We stayed at the Shining Star Beachfront accommodation. It was right near the beach (go figure), and it had an alpaca and rabbits roaming in front of our room! At night, we visited the Glow Worm Dell. Go after 10:30pm to avoid the crowds. It’s quite dark, but I still recommend not using a torch; it will ruin the effect and you won’t be able to make out the worms.
Day 12: Pancake Rocks & Kiwi Hospitality
It takes about 4-5 hours to drive to Nelson from Hokitika. As we drove, we stopped off at Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. As the name suggests, the rocks are stacked on top of one another like…pancakes. There’s a tourist centre and a few eateries so this is a good rest stop. As of December 2025, the car parking is now paid. We paid for exactly one hour and that was enough to grab a coffee and see the rocks. I did enjoy it. Seeing the waves crash against them, the sheer power of the sea is undeniable.
Pancake Rocks.
The main part of this day was to visit my friends Amy and Shaw. They are based in Nelson, one of the sunniest parts of New Zealand. They both put on a real spread, making us a classic Kiwi BBQ. To cap the evening off, they drove us around the area in their kitted-out minis. They are the coolest people ever.
Day 13: Farewell Spit and Pupu Springs
Our friend drove us to Farewell Spit, the northernmost point of the South Island. We got a beautiful view of the bay and the sandy beaches. We then drove to Pupu Springs. This is a famous place to visit as it’s some of the purest and clearest water you’ll ever see.
I’m not sure my photo does justice to how clear the water was.
On the way back, we got cherry ice cream at Thomas Bros Stall. When I tell you this is one of the best ice creams I’ve ever had, I’m not joking. We also stopped at a local favourite, Toad Hall, to grab a poke bowl for our packed lunch tomorrow.
Top tip: Try a golden kiwi! It has tones of mango. Yum!
Day 14: Abel Tasman National Park
Our friend drove us to Kaiteriteri to do the Wilsons Abel Tasman “The Great Day Out” cruise and walk.
Pack some lunch (though you can buy food on the boat), plenty of sun lotion, and hiking boots. Most importantly, bring insect spray to ward off those pesky sandflies, and swimming trunks.
A highlight of the cruise was seeing the seal colony paddling near the rocks and playing with one another. It’s not guaranteed you’ll see them, so we felt lucky. The sand is golden, and the water is an incredible opal blue. I loved seeing the Split Apple Rock, a huge ball of granite perfectly split down the middle.
Split Apple Rock.
Here is the itinerary we followed:
- 9:15 AM: Depart Kaiteriteri on the Vista Cruise.
- 11:10 AM: The boat turns around at Tōtaranui.
- 11:30 AM: Arrive at Tonga Quarry.
- 11:30 AM - 3:10 PM: The Walk. We walked for two hours (4.1km) from Tonga Quarry to Medlands Beach. The trail includes the Bark Bay Waterfall and a cool swing bridge. It’s a pleasant walk, though the initial part is uphill, so pace yourself!
- 3:10 PM: Depart Medlands Beach.
- 4:15 PM: Return to Kaiteriteri.
One of many golden sandy beaches at the Abel Tasman National Park.
In the evening, we ate at Brick Eatery. Our friends had their wedding here which made it all the more special. Their lamb is to die for.
Day 15: The One Ring & Seals
Before we left Nelson, we made a pit stop at Jens Hansen, the jeweller who made the original movie rings for the Lord of the Rings. If you buy something, they’ll even let you hold the original ring. To hold such an important part of film and cultural history is all kinds of epic.
We drove to Picton for lunch at Toastie Lords. The menu is simple and the food is brilliant.
We drove through Blenheim, which is wine country. You’ll pass vineyard after vineyard. If you have the time, visit some wineries.
Our main destination was the Ohau Point Lookout to see some seals. Do not miss this. We saw seal cubs and their mothers. We saw seals playfully fighting one another. It felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
Look how many seals you can see at Ohau Point Lookout.
Accommodation:
We stayed at Kaikoiura Motel Lodge. Its main positive is that it has ample parking and is fairly close to the high street, though we felt the room itself could have been cleaner.
Day 16: Whales by Air, Seals by Land
The main reason you visit Kaikoura is because of the whales. You’ve got two choices: boat or plane. If you go with a plane, you’ve got the rest of the day to do whatever you want. We booked the plane option via GetYourGuide.com. The flight itself is about 20-30 minutes and the plane seats about 7 people.
The plane you take to see whales.
We were lucky enough to see the humpback whale, a pod of dolphins, and sperm whales. We even got to see the sperm whale re-enter the water and flash its huge tail. It can get a bit rough on the plane, and there were times I felt a little queasy. So I recommend if you’ve got a faint constitution, to be wary of this experience.
In the afternoon, we did the Kaikoura Peninsula walk. It’s about 3-4 hours and this walk has it all. You can see cute baby seals close up, take in the breathtaking coastline and walk through a forest.
One of many seals you will see on the Kaikoura Peninsula walk.
Top tip: As an alternative, why not try the Eco-Zip line?
In the evening, we grabbed fish and chips from Sunnys. We loved the food and heartily recommend others to try it.
Day 17: Hanmer Springs & Christchurch
Spa day! We drove two hours from Kaikoura to Hanmer Springs to soak in some sweet geothermal water. You’ve got a mixture of pools, alongside some epic slides. This is a great day out for all.
Sadly, it was time to return our trusty steed. Our car has served us well, and we will miss it. We returned our keys at the Sixt counter in Christchurch and grabbed a taxi to our new hotel.
Accommodation:
We stayed at Hotel Give. Each and every guest enables the hotel to support The Kind Foundation, which in turn supports the Christchurch community by offering a diverse range of programmes and services to those in need. The rooms felt spacious and the location was superb being right next to the botanical gardens.
In the evening, we ate at the popular Riverside Market. If you are in doubt about what to eat, this is the place to go. We ate a hearty ramen, a much-needed pick-me-up.
Christchurch as a city was devastated by the earthquakes. It’s still rebuilding, and you can see the phoenix rising from the ashes of the destruction. The buildings feel new and fresh, and the city has transformed into something more resilient.
Christchurch art.
Day 18: The Elusive Kiwi
Rectifying a big mistake from the trip, we knew we needed to see a kiwi. There is no better place than Willowbank. We saw ducks, wallabies, deer, pigs, cows and of course a Kiwi. This is THE place to see a Kiwi. I was grateful to see it, and even more grateful to be almost one metre away from it. I must stress this is exceedingly rare. Kiwis are skittish and nocturnal by nature.
Top tip: If you plan on visiting the International Antarctic Centre, you can get a combined ticket which ends up being cheaper.
After the joy of seeing the kiwi, we took an Uber to the impressive Botanical Gardens. Christchurch is known as the garden city for a reason. I was pleasently suprised to see bunting on offer here. You can get tours of the city on the water. The tour guides even wear the old Edwardian outfits of yesteryear.
Bunting.
Later, we visited the Arts Centre, a brilliant place to grab a coffee, check out some exhibitions and visit some cute independent stores.
We ended the night with dinner on the Christchurch Tram. You need to book beforehand but it’s absolutely worth it. You get a tour of the city alongside a delightful 3-course meal.
Tramway Restaurant.
Day 19: Antarctica & Auckland
We went to the International Antarctic Centre. Christchurch is one of five places in the world to depart to the Antarctic from. You can ride the Hagglund, a motorised vehicle specialised for the harsh climate. They take you around a small circuit, and it’s like a mini rollercoaster. You can also experience what a storm is like in Antarctic conditions. You can do this in 2 hours. If you are catching a flight afterwards, you can leave your luggage at reception.
Hagglund.
We took a flight to Auckland. We started our journey here and it was time to finish it here too. We went to the Weta Workshop Unleashed booked via GetYourGuide.com. This is different to the one in Wellington I went to last year. This time, it’s much more interactive and about how Weta thinks about world-building.
Day 20: Hobbiton (Again!)
It’s so good I had to go twice! I won’t repeat what I said before but just to say, Hobbiton is a must for all lovers of Lord of the Rings. This time I ate at the food marquee, and helped myself to a healthy (I use the term loosely) portion of food. It being Christmas Eve means that this was extra special.
Frodo and Bilbo’s house.
Day 21: Christmas Day in Summer
It’s Christmas!!! The best day of the year.
To begin, we started off with a humongous portion of breakfast at the hotel. We then went to Mission Bay beach to celebrate in true Kiwi style. It was lovely to see so many families spending time with loved ones. We took a short walk to the Michael Joseph Savage Memorial to get beautiful views of the city and Rangitoto Island.
In the evening, we had a fancy Christmas meal at our hotel, and watched Christmas films on Netflix.
Day 22 & 23: The Long Way Home
Our last day in New Zealand! We had a lie-in, checked out, and walked to our pre-booked massage. Feeling refreshed, we walked the CBD area grabbing a matcha latte and some pasta. We walked near Albert Park and revisited one of my favourite museums in New Zealand, the Auckland Art Museum. I then headed to the airport to start the very long journey back home!
A big thank you to everyone who made this special. To my friends Shaw and Amy, I’d like to thank them for their hospitality and generosity. Also, my friend Jesse, who answered many of my questions about what to see and do. Finally, I’d like to thank Cathy for making this the best and most special trip ever.
