Buenos Aires is the birthplace of Tango and the capital city of Argentina. The city earns its nickname, the ‘Paris of South America’, from its European-style architecture and wide boulevards, reminiscent of Paris. It’s so much more than a copy of Paris. It boasts a thriving arts scene and a passionate football culture.
Day 1: First Impressions and Frida’s Flair
Accomodation:
I stayed at the Milhouse Avenue Hostel. This no-frills hostel offers an ideal location close to the city’s heart. If you are looking to meet new people, it’s a great social hostel, as the staff run regular events throughout the week.
My day started with a walk where I saw the Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada, and the San Telmo Market. If you visit on a Sunday, you can explore the area’s famous flea market. At the time, I was craving something a little different for dinner, so I found some brilliant Vietnamese food in the area at Saigon Noodle Bar.
San Telmo Market.
Next, I took an Uber to the Recoleta Cemetery to see Eva Perón’s grave. This cemetery is one of the most interesting places I have been to. It’s a shame I do not know much about Argentinian history, as many significant figures rest here.
Recoleta Cemetery.
After that, I went to the MALBA museum. The highlight was seeing a Frida Kahlo painting.
Frida Kahlo painting.
After this, I visited the Japanese Gardens, which reminded me of Tokyo. It is a true oasis of calm in the hustle and bustle of the city.
After this, I took a stroll to the Palermo neighbourhood. I was curious to see what makes this area so exciting and found many restaurants and cafés. This is a good place for an evening meal. On my way to Palermo, I randomly found myself at the Ecoparque. This is a free zoo. Imagine my surprise when I stumbled upon a giraffe, a hippopotamus, and a peacock.
Top tip: Try Mate! It’s a popular South American tea that everyone drinks. Buy yourself a special container and a filtered straw as a nice souvenir.
At night, I went to a tango show. Unlimited wine? That could have been dangerous… Yes, the tango can be a touristy thing to do, but it’s worth doing. The highlight was seeing the ‘knives dance’.
Day 2: Biking, Boca, and a Michelin Star Barbecue
On Saturday morning, I visited the oldest café in the city, Café Tortoni. Walking inside felt like travelling back in time. Here, in this traditional Argentinian café, I caught up with an old university friend. Seeing him so happy and content with life made me happy.
Later, I went on a bike tour of San Telmo, the financial district, and La Boca. The bike ride gives you a new perspective on the city. Throughout our frequent stops, the guide took the time to explain Argentina’s complex history. Seeing the Boca Juniors stadium was a personal highlight for me.
Boca Juniors stadium.
I tried an empanada from a local kitchen (you had to ring a bell to get the family’s attention) and tasted the famous Argentinian cookie, alfajores.
In the evening, I went to my first Michelin-starred meal of the trip at Fogón Asado. The restaurant features a custom-designed grill for cooking the meat. The night started with me making my own chimichurri. Readers, I did not read the instructions even though the waiter told me to read them carefully. Let’s just say my sauce left a lot to be desired. Later courses consisted of a selection of meats, which the chefs cooked using pine cones to tenderise them. The night ended with pancakes and dulce de leche (of course it did).
Fogón Asado. As I ate, the fire crackled in the background.
Top tip: Dulce de leche is a sweet from Latin America which they make by slowly cooking milk and sugar to create a thick, spreadable sauce-like texture. It does taste like caramel.
Day 3: Souvenirs, History, and a Maradona Haunt
The next morning, I returned to the San Telmo Market and bought some souvenirs. I then visited the Natural History Museum to learn about Argentinian independence, Museo Moderno, and the Metropolitan Cathedral near the pink palace.
For lunch, I visited Caseros, a family-run restaurant that the Michelin guide recommends. Here, I ate rabbit meatballs and pasta. I’ve never had rabbit before, but it was really good. For my final meal, I went to a place where Diego Maradona used to dine, Cantina Chichilo. The gaudy interior looked more like a homage to football than a restaurant.
I want to give a special shout-out to Marito for helping me plan my trip, and to my friend Aqeel for meeting me in the city he now calls home.
