Stockholm, a city built on water, spreads elegantly across 14 islands connected by more than 50 bridges. From the medieval cobblestone streets of Gamla Stan to the trendy, design and technology focused districts, Stockholm offers a unique experience. While the city is a popular summer destination, I recommend visiting in late spring or early autumn to enjoy the pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and the beautiful transition of seasons.
Day 1: Arrival and a Food Tour!
We awoke at 3:15 a.m. to prepare for an early flight to Stockholm. Upon arriving at the airport, we left our car with a valet service. We had never done this before, but we found it much more convenient and cost-effective to hand the car over for someone else to park. The process was seamless, and they even photographed the car to document its condition.
After landing in Stockholm, we activated our SL card, having bought our seven-day pass via the SL app. We also purchased the Arlanda Passenger Supplement for 147 SEK (£11.50).
As an alternative, you can either take the Arlanda Express (much more expensive but faster) or the Flygbussarna coach (longer but cheaper).
Accomodation:
We chose to stay at the Radisson Blu Royal Viking Hotel because of its central location, just outside the station. This made it convenient to get to any part of the city. The rooms were pleasant and the staff friendly. However, I found the hotel’s extras expensive. It was a shame the pool incurred an additional cost.
Once we had settled in, we took a rambling walk across Norrmalm, ending up at IKEA (of course). We watched countless people buy the famous meatballs.
Afterwards, we headed for a stroll through Humlegården and came across an impressive statue of Carl Linné, a famous biologist. The National Library of Sweden sits in the park, and I found its architecture fascinating, blending the modern with the classic. Inside, we saw the Codex Gigas, the world’s largest preserved medieval manuscript. Legend has it that a monk, condemned for his sins, wrote it in a single night. In despair, the monk turned to the Devil, who helped him in exchange for a portrait within the book. For this reason, people also call it the Devil’s Bible.
Top tip: if you are looking to pamper yourself, why not check out the luxurious Yasuragi, a Japanese onsen. If you are looking for a cheaper option, try the Centralbadet.
Once we had our fill of classic books, we headed to meet our food tour guide in the quaint, cosy Östermalmshallen, Stockholm’s old market hall. I booked this tour through GetYourGuide.com and found it well worth the price. I am a big fan of taking a food tour on your first day to get to grips with a new city.
For our first bite, we sampled local cheeses with cloudberry jam. I will definitely bring a jar of this home. For the more adventurous, we then had a classic combination of bear, reindeer, and moose meats. That is certainly not something I would eat regularly. I found the taste similar to ham and quite gamey, but you can wash it down with a light, refreshing beer. Afterwards, you try the classic meatballs you see at every IKEA. I do recommend going somewhere other than IKEA to experience what locals might eat more regularly. Eventually, we found ourselves at another food hall, trying classic Swedish seafood at Kajsas Fisk, a place owned by three generations of Swedish women. We tried the tomato-based fish soup, herring, a sliver of smoked salmon sandwich, and a cheese pie. All were mouth-watering.
Top Tip: The tour guide recommended Hötorgshallen as the place to go for fruit or gifts for loved ones.
Next, we tried a classic Swedish sweet treat: liquorice. This comes in all shapes, sizes, and flavours, from passion fruit to strawberries and cream. We tried the salty versions, which were sharp and not for the faint-hearted. We even tried the smoked version, which was not to my taste.
Top Tip: If you are looking for a cultural fix, visit the Kulturhuset. There is plenty to do here, with everything from art and films to comedy and music.
From here, we walked to Gamla Stan, or Old Town. Along the way, we admired the Royal Palace and the Parliament House. Oddly, the palace is the most minimalist building in the city. It stands in stark contrast to the houses in the old city, some of which draw inspiration from Danish and French architecture. To end the tour, we took part in the classic Swedish tradition of fika, sipping a black coffee with a Swedish kanelbullar.
Top Tip: On certain days, some museums host workshops or late-night activities. Be sure to check what is on.
Day 2: Djurgården Island and an Evening at the Opera
We took a bus to Djurgården Island. If you prefer something more scenic, take the SL Ferry. We started at the magnificent Vasa Museum, booked through GetYourGuide.com to see a preserved 17th-century ship. The ship was only rediscovered in 1961. It is immaculately preserved, and the museum highlights the painstaking efforts made to keep it that way. The intricate wood carvings along the ship only add to its iconic status.
The back of the ship.
Top Tip: Take a self-guided tour of the metro to see the fabulous artwork lining the underground.
As part of our ticket, we gained access to the Vrak – Museum of Wrecks. It is a smaller museum, so you will not spend too long here, but as the name suggests, it focuses on what happens when a ship capsizes. I particularly enjoyed the VR experience of being a diver.
The moment I had been waiting for was visiting ABBA The Museum. Be sure to book beforehand, as it gets busy! I loved revisiting famous ABBA moments, like their Eurovision entry of ‘Waterloo’, and seeing all their quite colourful outfits.
Abba!
Top Tip: You will find many museums on Djurgården Island. I suggest visiting Skansen, an open-air museum where you can see traditional Swedish life.
In the evening, we booked tickets to see a performance by one of the world’s most renowned Baroque opera companies in The Dragon of Wantley (1737) at Cofidencen. It is a hilarious English opera that parodies the grand seriousness of Italian opera. It tells the absurd tale of a drunken knight who defeats a dragon not with heroics, but with a single well-aimed kick to its backside. The opera house was built in the 1750s, so it felt like a real privilege to see this performance here.
The opera being performed at Cofidencen.
Day 3: Uppsala
We took a train from Stockholm Central Station to Uppsala. You can either choose the Mälartåg service or pay a supplement via the SL app to use the regular commuter train. This quaint university town is a delight to visit. We started with the imposing Uppsala Cathedral, the largest in Scandinavia.
Next, we explored the Gustavianum Museum, making sure to see its unique 17th-century Anatomical Theatre.
Top Tip: You are spoiled for choice with excellent food options here. You can visit Hambergs Fisk for seafood or try Domtrappkällaren for its historic cellar setting. If you go here, try the Raggmunk. It’s a delightful shallow-fried potato pancake, served with lingonberry jam and pork.
I particularly enjoyed strolling through the pictureresque Linnaeus Garden. You can also see Uppsala Castle for its history and views, but personally, it did not impress me, and it did not look like a castle.
We took a train back to Stockholm and relaxed in the hotel for a few hours. Once recovered, we set out to walk the city. We ended up at Xulo, Cocina de Mexico, a fun taco joint. After a hefty amount of tacos, we decided to end the night at a classy establishment: Bar Elisabeth. For those more adventurous (and mischievous), why not visit Melt, a speakeasy and cabaret bar?
Top Tip: Sweden is expensive for food and drinks. One way to save money is to get food from convenience stores like 7-Eleven or visit the endless number of food courts dotted around the city.
Day 4: Tyresta National Park and Fine Dining
We took the SL commuter train to Handen station, then bus 834 to the park entrance at Tyresta by. Please be mindful that while the train runs frequently, the bus does not. Plan ahead to ensure you do not have to wait long for it.
There are many trails at Tyresta National Park. For an easy route, hike the “Barnvagnsslingan” trail. This beautiful 5 km loop through the famous old-growth forest takes around two hours, leaving time to visit the Naturum (visitor centre). We followed this scenic route, a two-hour hike with lovely views of lakes and moss-lined trees.
Tyresta National Park.
Top Tip: I recommend downloading the AllTrails app. We found it did an amazing job navigating us through the path, which is especially important when the way forward is not obvious!
For lunch, you can either enjoy a packed lunch at a picnic spot or have a simple pie or sandwich at the rustic Tyresta Café. After lunch, we headed back to the hotel to rest and freshen up.
For the evening, we went to Växthuset. This premier, plant-based fine-dining restaurant in Södermalm offers a creative and modern tasting menu—perfect for a memorable celebration. Dishes included a spectacular tomato marmalade and cucumber soup, potato rosti, and beetroot with herb and walnut cream.
Top Tip: There are a lot of clubs and bars in this area, so if you are looking for somewhere with a good nightlife scene, this is the place to be!
Day 5: Vaxholm
We took an SL metro train and bus to Vaxholm. As an alternative, you can take a scenic ferry from Strömkajen near the Grand Hôtel to Vaxholm. The journey through the archipelago is a highlight in itself.
When we arrived, we immediately began the Vaxholm Loop, a roughly two-hour journey around the edge of the island. It is a straightforward hike, apart from one steep descent. I recommend you wander the charming streets, browse the independent shops, and soak in the atmosphere of the “Capital of the Archipelago.”
For lunch, choose from one of the lovely waterfront restaurants or enjoy a coffee and cake at Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Café. My personal recommendation is to visit Camilles Trädgård & Café, a vegan café. Try the apple crumble or brownie; both are delightful. If you want to spend more time here, you can take the two-minute cable ferry over to the imposing Vaxholm Fortress. Explore the museum and walk the ramparts for fantastic sea views.
Afterwards, take a return ferry to Stockholm at your leisure, arriving back in the late afternoon. We ended up at the Kulturhuset, exploring some of the exhibitions and relaxing with a coffee.
In the evening, we went to Tokyo Ramen. I thought the Spicy Miso Ramen was superb. Afterwards, we walked through the city and made a pit stop at Sweet Burger for some Künefe and ice cream.
Day 6: The Royal Palace and Fotografiska Museum
We started the day with an early morning swim. Afterwards, we headed to the Royal Palace. The exterior of the palace is minimalist and stands in stark contrast to the rest of the city. However, do not let the exterior fool you. It houses an assortment of riches and provides a glimpse into the storied history of the Swedish Royal Family. I loved seeing the palace rooms; a few even reminded me of Versailles.
Top Tip: Many people want to see the changing of the guard, so arrive 15 minutes early if you want a good spot. Also, check the timings online, as the ceremony schedule can change each season.
For lunch, we went to Fern and Fika, a vegan coffee house. We had the brownie and a tofu sandwich, where the tofu tasted remarkably like an omelette. Whilst this food was amazing, Hornstulls Marknad, is nearby, and is open on Sundays. It is a fabulous food market with reasonable prices and food from across the world.
To end our time in Stockholm, we went to the Fotografiska Museum. This is a cool spot to be at any time of day. The exhibitions provided a view into how photographers use different lighting and angles to achieve their desired effects.
Top Tip: If you are looking for a spot for Fika or dinner, the Fotografiska Museum houses some of the best food in the city. In fact, one of its restaurants has a Michelin green star, indicating its commitment to sustainability.
Sadly, our time in Stockholm was at an end. We took the SL commuter train back to the airport, leaving the city with fond memories.
Top Tip: If your flight is in the evening, eat before you get to the airport. At the time of writing, there are not many food options. If you are running out of time, McDonald’s has a branch before departures.
Sadly, our time in Stockholm was at an end. We took the SL commuter train back to the airport, leaving the city with fond memories. A final thank you to Cathy for making my trip so special.
